Nara

Two days ago we visited the ancient city of Nara, a repository of Japanese culture that was established in 710.  As the last stop on the Silk Road, Nara absorbed Chinese art, religion and architecture, fusing it with native Shinto tradition.  Nara was the capital of Japan from 710-794 (when the capital was moved to Kyoto); in 1998 it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Todai-ji is the most important temple in Nara.  It was founded in 743 by Emperor Shomu as the seat of authority for Buddhist Japan.

The Daibutsu-den, or Hall of the Great Buddha, is said to be the largest wooden structure in the world.

The Todai-ji complex has been rebuilt several times, due to damage by earthquake and fire.  The current incarnation was constructed in 1709.

Nara is also famous for its deer.  Legend states that Takenomikazuchi-no-mikoto, one of the five gods of Kasuga Shrine, landed atop Mt. Mikasa riding a white deer.  The deer of Nara are thus regarded as sacred messengers and have been designated National Treasures.  Treasured they may be, but they are quite aggressive in their quest for snacks, and numerous warnings are posted in the temple complex.

After Todai-ji, we visited the less-touristed and more intimate temple complex of Tosho-dai-ji.  The temple was built in 751 for a Chinese priest named Ganjin, who was invited by Emperor Shomu to give formal instruction to Japanese Buddhist monks.

Despite numerous travails, Ganjin finally made it to Japan and shared his knowledge of Buddhism with his Japanese hosts over the course of many years.  He is also remembered for bringing the first sampling of sugar to Japan. 

The Golden Hall, also known as the Kondo, has a single story, hipped tiled roof with a seven bay wide facade. It is considered the archetype of "classical style,"  and borrows many elements of Chinese architecture.  Large wooden columns serve as the load-bearing and stabilizing element of the structure. Each column sits atop a single large stone, anchoring the building. The walls, floors, and complex bracketed roof structure are then built around these columns.

The ceramic tile roofs at Tosho-dai-ji exemplify the Buddhist belief that temple roofs should be curved, in order to help ward off evil spirits.  The ridge lines (both the main ridge and ancillary ridges) arc downward, avoiding any semblance of a straight line.   

Special pendant tiles called nokimarugawara decorate the eaves, and feature a circular disk attached to a half-round tile. The disk, or gatou, serves a practical purpose in closing off the end of the last tile, but also features a decorative image thought to act as a protective charm.  The corner tiles also feature an onigawara, or ogre that gives additional protection from evil

The image at left shows the temple complex storehouse, where canonical texts were stored and protected from the elements.  Elevated above the ground on piers, it is constructed like a log cabin, with triangular logs stacked horizontally to form its walls.  In wet weather, the logs would swell and seal any gaps, preventing water from entering.  In dry weather they would contract, allowing air to ventilate the building.

Haiku #4

across an old wall

tiles chatter like loose teeth

smiling in the wind